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I’m sure that Conde Nast would not have hired Enninful if they were not genuinely convinced he is up to the job.But if this pretentious, overblown, self-indulgent and frankly hideous photo-fantasy is any indication of his work, then either someone has a very strange sense of humour or they have seriously miscalculated and they — and the readers of Vogue — are in for a nasty surprise.It’s certainly not sexy in any way — the models are wearing more clothes than an Eskimo in January.The Alice In Wonderland theme is played out by models, rappers, actors and a drag queen in pictures promoting the 2018 calendar.To produce a post-porn Pirelli calendar that turns the entire notion on its head.
Perhaps the solution is to go in a completely different direction altogether.
Thus we have two blokes wearing brown cowls and dressed as playing cards; a young woman in what appears to be a giant blue Nylon quilt; Naomi Campbell in some sort of mesh arrangement worn over a double-breasted suit; Sean Combs (aka the American rapper P.
Diddy) in padded shoulder-pads and neck chains; the albino model Thando Hopa, dressed like a Victorian bride; and Ru Paul, TV’s favourite drag queen, upholstered like the world’s campest sofa in red velvet. In fact, I’ve never seen such a collection of self-consciously glum faces.
Perhaps, then, that was the premise behind 2018’s interpretation, styled by none other than the new editor of British Vogue, Edward Enninful It is, in fact, a Statement, a Vision, and, as Mr Combs recently told the New York Times: ‘A chance to push social consciousness and break down barriers.’Or, as Vogue’s new boss Enninful puts it: ‘It is about all creeds, all colours, all sizes and people just living their truths.
A lot of this is about digital giving people voices, and a new generation who refuse to compromise and want answers to the questions that matter to them.‘Given the state of the world we live in, sometimes I think we all feel like we’ve fallen down the rabbit hole.
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‘For me, a retelling of Alice for the modern world was a perfect project, particularly once the cast fell into place.’The thing about pushing boundaries — as Enninful clearly thinks he is — is that there is no point in pushing them simply for the sake of it. And try as I might, I simply cannot find it in these pictures.